登泰山记
姚鼐
泰山(shan)之(zhi)阳(yang)(yang),汶(wen)水西流;其阴(yin),济(ji)水东流。阳(yang)(yang)谷(gu)皆入汶(wen),阴(yin)谷(gu)皆入济(ji)。当其南(nan)北分(fen)者,古(gu)长城也。最高日观峰,在(zai)长城南(nan)十五里。
余以乾隆(long)三十(shi)九年十(shi)二月,自京师(shi)乘风雪,历齐河(he)、长清,穿泰(tai)山(shan)(shan)西北谷(gu)(gu),越长城(cheng)之(zhi)限,至(zhi)于泰(tai)安。是(shi)月丁未,与知府朱孝纯子颍由南麓登。四十(shi)五里(li),道皆砌(qi)石为磴(deng)(deng),其级(ji)七千有余。泰(tai)山(shan)(shan)正南面有三谷(gu)(gu)。中(zhong)谷(gu)(gu)绕泰(tai)安城(cheng)下,郦道元所谓环水(shui)(shui)也(ye)。余始循以入,道少半,越中(zhong)岭(ling)(ling),复循西谷(gu)(gu),遂(sui)至(zhi)其巅。古时(shi)登山(shan)(shan),循东(dong)谷(gu)(gu)入,道有天门。东(dong)谷(gu)(gu)者(zhe),古谓之(zhi)天门溪(xi)水(shui)(shui),余所不至(zhi)也(ye)。今所经中(zhong)岭(ling)(ling)及(ji)山(shan)(shan)巅崖限当道者(zhe),也(ye)皆谓之(zhi)天门云。道中(zhong)迷(mi)雾冰滑,磴(deng)(deng)几不可登。及(ji)既上,苍(cang)山(shan)(shan)负(fu)雪,明(ming)烛天南。望晚日照城(cheng)郭,汶水(shui)(shui)、徂徕如画,而(er)半山(shan)(shan)居雾若(ruo)带然。
戊(wu)申晦,五鼓,与子颍坐(zuo)日(ri)观亭(ting),待日(ri)出。大风扬积雪击面。亭(ting)东自足(zu)下皆云(yun)漫。稍见云(yun)中白若樗蒱(pu)数十(shi)立者,山也(ye)。极天云(yun)一线异色,须(xu)臾成五采,日(ri)上正赤(chi)如丹,下有红光动摇承之。或曰,此东海也(ye)。回(hui)视日(ri)观以(yi)西(xi)峰,或得日(ri),或否,绛?驳色,而皆若偻。
亭西有岱祠(ci),又有碧霞元(yuan)(yuan)君(jun)祠(ci)。皇帝行宫在碧霞元(yuan)(yuan)君(jun)祠(ci)东。是日,观(guan)道中(zhong)石(shi)刻(ke),自唐(tang)显(xian)庆以来,其远古刻(ke)尽漫失。僻不(bu)当道者,皆不(bu)及往。
山多石,少(shao)土(tu)。石苍黑色,多平(ping)方,少(shao)圆(yuan)。少(shao)杂树(shu),多松(song),生石罅,皆平(ping)顶。冰(bing)雪(xue),无(wu)瀑水。无(wu)鸟兽(shou)音迹。至日观数(shu)里内无(wu)树(shu),而雪(xue)与人膝齐。
桐城姚鼐记。